Four weeks is enough. Newly founded in BHV Marais, women’s ready-to-wear brand Karma Koma is making waves and joining a long list of brands leaving the Parisian department store, mired in an unprecedented crisis.
In an Instagram publication released on Thursday, the French brand, known for its bohemian collections, explained its decision: “Like other brands that stick to their values, we have made the decision to leave BHV. » In question is the controversial arrival of Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant Shein on the sixth floor of the store, which was inaugurated on November 5.
An option that costs money
“Bringing together independent brands and ultra-fast fashion giants in one space creates a deep dissonance with the values we hold,” denounced Karma Koma. The brand claims to have accepted “with enthusiasm” the joining of this symbolic venue on the rue de Rivoli. But the discovery of Shein’s presence – announced on October 1 – would change everything.
“This choice is not without consequences,” the brand said, referring to “economic losses, logistical efforts, mobilized teams.” But for Karma Koma, this is primarily an “act of consistency.” “Because a brand is basically a word that is kept true, even if it costs money,” defends the brand in its publications.
The departures are part of an increasingly worrying hemorrhage for BHV Marais. Since the controversial announcement regarding Shein’s installation, around fifteen brands have packed their bags. Agnès B., Figaret, Le Slip Français, but recently Dior and Guerlain have abandoned ship. Both perfumers emptied their shelves, but for different reasons: repeated unpaid bills by BHV management.
Late payments and worries
Because beyond the Shein controversy, it was the issue of default that weakened the department store. In early October, management cited issues related to implementing new automated purchasing and supplier payment software, promising to return to normal “in the coming weeks.”
But the number of people leaving is increasing. Sandro and Maje also added to the list of defections. “There is concern because the Christmas period is coming, and before that there is Black Friday, this is where many brands make huge profits from their annual turnover,” recently testified a department store employee, who has worked at BHV for nine years.
The difficulties BHV faces don’t just impact the brand. Customers were also in a difficult situation, with paid purchases never being delivered. The supplier, in the absence of payment, will block delivery.
Store salespeople are now avoiding taking orders, citing technical or stock issues. “When someone asks me for sizes, I pretend to look at the stock but I know very well that we haven’t received anything since the summer,” a salesperson told the Libération daily.
Frédéric Merlin, SGM boss, remained publicly optimistic by highlighting “more than 50,000 visitors” to Shein less than a week after its inauguration. But things are shaking, and the brands’ rebellion doesn’t appear to be abating.
