They are part of Vienna’s cityscape as an iconic element of its culture. But, at the same time, they serve as a democratic catalyst through which people of different origins meet, mix and socialise. The sausage stands of the Austrian capital, hidden beneath sumptuous buildings, bring together students and managers, athletes and night owls, conductors finishing their service and cleaners starting their day. As a pure expression of street foodtheirs is a gastronomy that everyone can afford.
It’s only been a year since these positions were called sausage stand They have been recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, a title that underlines that it is precisely in the street that the authentic flavor of this city resides. These quick snacks, born on the streets after the First World War and became permanent sales points in the 1960s, are the most popular snack. And although none of them lack indigenous invention käsekrainer (typical sausage with cheese), each of them differs in some way from the others.
Zum Scharfen Rene, located on the corner of the elegant Schwarzenberg Platz, does it for the spicy sauces that its owner prepares and which have earned him top ratings from the Falstaff, the Austrian culinary award that would be equivalent to the Repsol Suns in Spain. Also very popular is Mike Lanner’s stand on Pfeilgasse, adapted to current times: his offer not only includes organic meat, but also vegan alternatives and lamb sausages for Muslims. And legendary among all is Leo, in district 19, the oldest in the city: the third generation is already in charge.
Radetzky and the emperor
Exploring Vienna from the point of view of the palate means conceiving its cuisines as a mirror of its eventful history. Influenced by the culinary traditions of Bohemia, Hungary, Italy and the Balkans, its gastronomy was forged in the heat of the Habsburg empire, which represented a complete transfer of cultures. This substantial, varied, racial cuisine, ideal for resisting the cold and irresistible for those with a sweet tooth (a hot dessert can become a unique dish) survives today in beisl or traditional taverns, with wood-panelled walls and a welcoming atmosphere. Among these, Gmoakeller, born in the 19th century under a vault that preserves the ancient aesthetics of the city.
Here, where the menus are overflowing and the diners are buzzing, the masterpiece of Viennese cuisine stands out: the cutletwhich in its purest meaning is a breaded beef fillet, but which can also be composed of chicken, pork or vegetables. Nothing can overshadow this iconic dish like the waltz or Empress Sisi. And although other countries claim paternity, there are those who claim that it was Marshal Joseph Radetzky (the same one to whom Strauss dedicated his famous march) who brought it from Milan to Vienna in 1857. Today the cutlet It is a ubiquitous delicacy that is deliciously served at the Meissl & Schadn restaurant, where chef Zivko Jovanovic prepares around 500 a day.
But there are other dishes that have remained marked by the memory of Emperor Franz Joseph: Tafelspitz (cooked beef), which was apparently his favorite, or the kaiserschmarrena kind of sweet and crumbly crepe which, according to gossip, has its origins in the fact that one day it fell to the ground and the Kaiser wanted to eat it despite its scruffy appearance.
Eat (and drink) with elegance
Beyond the classic veneer, Viennese cuisine has a creative and contemporary feel. And also sustainable, as demonstrated by the Meinklang restaurant, a few steps from the Naschmarkt, with its commitment to local products and its philosophy. from farm to table.
You have to go to Schleifmühlgasse, the liveliest street in the 4th district, to see gastronomic establishments emerging that have a lot to say. Some, like Z’Som, are awarded the Michelin firmament in a city that has 14 starred restaurants. The most famous: Steirereck, not only three stars, but also present in the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. A true reference of haute cuisine, led by Heinz and Birgit Reitbauer and located in a beautiful building within the leafy Stadtpark. Those who cannot afford the gift can go (just below) to Meierei, a cheaper version with a more casual atmosphere.
To water these delights there is, obviously, the nectar of Bacchus. The Austrian capital is one of the few metropolises in the world that has vineyards within its city limits. 600 hectares, most of it in the 19th district, considered the Beverly Hills of Vienna. In these wine-growing hills where, in their time, Mozart and Beethoven had their summer residence, the gemischter satza wine made from up to 20 grape varieties which, instead of being mixed in the cellar, grow together in the soil.
It only takes 20 minutes from the center to suddenly appear in this landscape covered with pergola vines, from where you can splendidly see the city, crossed by the mouth of the Danube. Here the paths lead to tradition heurigenrustic taverns where families offer wine from the latest harvest accompanied by typical dishes, or prestigious wineries such as Fuhrgassl-Huber, which organizes private tastings and hearty meals in a restaurant with popular music.
Feminist and non-alcoholic drinks
Like wine, beer in Vienna enjoys an ancient tradition thanks to Ottakringer, which has been producing this blond liquid since 1837. A company that has resisted wars, expropriations and economic crises to maintain its independence and its family character among multinational giants. A visit to their factory allows you to learn about the production process and enjoy it after work in the Otta Office, with food truck and surround music.
Also curious is Muskicraft, the feminist beer produced in Vienna only by women. With a bold label in the shape of a vulva, its aim is not only to demolish the cliché of this drink associated with masculinity, but also to fulfill a social function: for every bottle sold, 10 cents are donated to the Autonomous Women’s Houses of Austria. To taste it there is the J. Hornig Kaffeebar, always attentive to new trends.
And a minority, although increasingly powerful, is the territory of those who choose a life without alcohol. Kein&Low was born for them, the space where they can find alternative drinks such as sparkling teas, kombucha, vegetable fermentations and proxy of wine and also whiskey and other spirits. Drinks that maintain that social function that makes you experience great moments around a table in Vienna.
