To open a jar and release a whole, fleshy, aromatic roasted pepper with the ideal level of smoke, there is no other trick than using a good product and respecting the “old-fashioned” technique, according to La Bercianita, a newly born project to raise awareness of the flavors of the Bierzo region. “The key lies in two steps: first, a raw material of exceptional quality, with thick meat; second, peeling by hand.” The result, by not using pressurized water or products that facilitate the process, is that the pepper fiber does not break: the consistency remains compact; The whole vegetable and the smell of wood complete a combination that activates salivation.
We work exclusively with the pepper covered by the Pimiento del Bierzo Arrosto PGI denomination, cultivated in Ponferrada since the mid-17th century, where it was dried for the first time until 1669, when the women of Bercia began to roast it. With the consequent increase in consumption, the first canning factory was created in 1818, and to this day little has changed. “This is the native variety, the one linked to our tradition and the only one capable of offering the flavor and consistency we are looking for”, they reiterate.
Territory, tradition and technology
La Bercianita was born from the collaboration between a group of people who want to work without leaving home – in that Spain which is becoming increasingly empty every day also due, among other things, to the lack of job offers, as already associated with preserves or oil in other initiatives such as Mi Huerto – and a start young woman dedicated to consultancy, led by Antonio Espejo. The intention is to “reactivate the local production fabric, with a clear commitment to the territory and the intention of generating added value at origin”, leaving behind the model of selling loose raw materials (at prices that are not always fair).
“The objective is to transform the emblematic products of the orchard and the Bercian mountains into a line with national and international projection, defending artisanal quality”, for this reason they also work with the Conference DO pear in the form of jam, in syrup or in red wine with a touch of lemon juice, cinnamon and cloves. Chestnuts are also represented, both in syrup and in cream with vanilla and lemon. When we ask them which is their favourite, they say that choosing is impossible: “it’s like choosing between the orchard and the forest; each represents an essential part of Bierzo”.
A unique pepper and a laborious process
Collaboration is fundamental at La Bercianita, where on the one hand they directly manage their own farms – they currently have the largest pepper plantation in Bierzo, from which they harvested more than 60 tons in this last season – and, on the other, they have agreements with local producers.
“We always try to maintain a symbiotic relationship with the land and next year we will implement regenerative agriculture techniques,” they underline. Their intention is to “scale the knowledge that already exists”, as well as showcasing what they consider a unique combination of the region: exceptional raw materials, recognized by quality seals, and “a know-how that is an authentic cultural treasure”.
This includes the traditional oven roasting method that dictates El Bierzo’s PGI: direct contact with fire is essential, as it is responsible for “those smoky nuances and the caramelization of the pepper sugars that define the product.” Then, peeling by hand, a slower and much more laborious process which they consider an important differential value. “We do not intend to consume a single pepper, but rather a process and tradition that cannot be replicated in any other way,” they clarify. “Here we cook as we live, with calm, respect and taste, without haste.”
To preserve them they follow a minimal processing philosophy, respecting the organoleptic qualities of the product, without adding anything that is not necessary. This is how the flavor of the origins remains intact and where the role of women is highlighted, historical custodians of the recipes and techniques that have made Bercian gastronomy famous. The price of this slow and artisanal process is 7.49 euros for a 270 gram jar of pepper (in the three I tried of this size there were five to seven generously sized peppers); 13.45 for 710 grams.
How to eat Bierzo
Following their non-intervention philosophy, they recommend eating their peppers “with a drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil and, if anything, a little salt: that’s where you really appreciate the quality of the raw material and the difference compared to traditional roasting and peeling”. I listened to them in the first taste and I have nothing to complain about, although – without wanting to contradict them – I would add that with good toasted bread and cheese, with tuna in oil and olives or on some large cuts they were also very good.
Pears or chestnuts in syrup are meant to shine on their own, although I wouldn’t rule out accompanying them with a simple vanilla cream or ice cream (and some toasted hazelnuts on top for a crunchy touch, in the case of pears). I have no doubt that even birds such as duck, capon or even a good free-range chicken, as well as a sirloin or roast pork loin would appreciate these preserves as an accompaniment. In the case of jams, they can be consumed with cheeses or yogurt, “where the authentic flavor of fruit is the protagonist”, they invite.
To facilitate access to the product, as well as sales from your website; where they will also share news, recipes and more, aiming to build a national and international distribution network; looking for partners who understand “their commitment to quality and authenticity.” At the moment things are going well, and agreements have been reached with restaurants – some Michelin starred -, shops and distributors of gourmet products, as well as some supermarket chains.
La Bercianita is one of those stories that remind us why an artisanal product is not just food: it is also culture, a way of preserving the landscape and an edible homage to the hands that have collected, to the recipes that have not died or to the beauty that persists in every corner of El Bierzo. A roasted pepper with smoke, embers and memories.
In the section Product of the month We tell the story of foods that excite us for their quality, their flavor and the talent of the people who prepare them. No manufacturer provided us with money, jewelry or Mercadona gift cards for the production of these items.
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