“I fully assume responsibility. » If anyone expected an act of contrition, they were disappointed. Facing the deputies this Wednesday morning, Frédéric Merlin did not stutter and even showed a certain spirit, claiming to be “normal France, average France”: “I know it because I come from it”, he stated as an introduction to the session of the Economic Affairs Committee of the National Assembly. A “normal France” is what, he said, he had in mind when welcoming the first physical corner of Shein’s Asia platform to the Bazar de l’hôtel de ville (BHV) in Paris, sparking unprecedented controversy.
In just under two hours of Q&A, the president of Société des Grands Stores (SGM) did not hesitate to defend the partnership established with the ultra-fast fashion giant.
“The French sector (textiles and ready-to-wear) that is currently opposing this partnership was also responsible for this model, when it was produced thirty years ago in China,” he replied to socialist deputy Arthur Delaporte, questioning the fact that Shein “prospered on counterfeiting, plundering the intellectual property of French creators, putting children, Uighurs to work,” and denouncing the model as “a form of indecency.”
A mistake about XXL posters
“I am proud to welcome France’s 5th favorite brand,” said Frédéric Merlin, welcoming an increase in attendance of “by 15 to 25% more”, associated with this corner – a figure questioned by union representatives, who have observed “an abundance of customers” since its opening on November 5.
The thirty-year-old businessman even criticized the “total disconnection of the political apparatus from the reality and desires of France” – which caused an uproar among the deputies present.
Deputy (Les Républicains) Guillaume Lepers criticized him for “promoting an entire platform”, “thousands of references per day” including “a toy that will one day kill a child, a Christmas wreath that will burn down the house”? Response from Frédéric Merlin: “I come before you as a trader who respects the rules. The products I import undergo customs checks at airports and in stores. Platforms must be responsible. » And he emphasizes his point: “As long as the products sold in my store respect the same standards as other stores, I feel legitimate and ethical. Yes, there is an ethical dimension to this partnership with Shein. »
He hardly regrets the giant photo emblazoned on BHV’s facade, in which he shakes the hand of Shein executive president Donald Tang, accompanied by the provocative slogan “The poster we shouldn’t have made.” “If the child pornography doll affair (found at Shein market) had happened earlier, I would not have taken this photo. »
“Everyone will get paid”
Frédéric Merlin also had to answer sharp questions from MPs about his controversial management of BHV and the former Galeries Lafayette store, while many suppliers and brands fled due to huge unpaid debts.
“The brands are demanding huge amounts, sometimes for more than a year, but you still insist on stating that there is no debt,” worries former Renaissance minister and MP Olivia Grégoire, wondering about “the risk of bankruptcy suffered or organized”. “Everyone will be paid”, stressed Frédéric Merlin, repeating that his company does not have an “autonomous system” for accounting: “We would be able to have our tools today”.
What about the purchase of the BHV wall, with which SGM lost its main financial backer, Banque des Territories, a subsidiary of the Caisse des Dépôts, following the Shein controversy?
Although the deadline for the acquisition of the building was set for December 19, Frédéric Merlin confirmed that he was having “discussions with investment funds” – but not with Shein. And puts the ball back in the hands of “politicians who put pressure on the Bank of the Territories”: “They will be responsible for BHVs financed by foreign funds, whether American or British…”
In his unveiling, the entrepreneur said he wanted to “build a much more popular model dedicated to normal France”, where the Shein corner is “just one part of the machine”.
The crowd returns for Shein
“Your great achievement was the collapse of your flagship store, BHV, which you have turned into a social hell,” accused LFI lawmaker Aurélie Trouvé, recalling two economic warnings issued by the union, fearing for the company’s survival.
“Would it be better if I took over a loss-making company without changing anything? I am a private actor, I have to keep these shops alive. I take full responsibility,” repeated Frédéric Merlin. At almost the same time, those responsible for Shein appeared before a Paris court, and the State has summoned the platform and demanded its suspension for at least three months in France.
A procedure was initiated after the discovery of child pornographic dolls and category A weapons for sale at the Shein market. The hearing was adjourned until December 5.
